Cuba!

Here is a book that could be worth getting just for the photography, but also a book about food and culture that happens to have recipes. The recipes in Cuba! come from the three authors’ trips to the island, what they learned there, and how they can be made here. Unless you’re a real foodie with a decent budget, most people would realistically find one or a few recipes here to actually make; although, because of the simplicity of the ingredients, there is a higher percentage of “doable” recipes than in other niche cookbooks. Whether you make one, none, or many of these recipes, having this kind of book lets us learn more about cuisine and culture that we might not otherwise know much about, and is colorful joy to look through.

Every page is completely dressed in a single photo – no “blank” spaces. The ten chapters have two pages of introductory blurbs, then a two-page overhead shot of a table that I would love to be at: bright and sunny, and lined out with Cuban food. Of the single-page photos, my favorite has to be the empanadas with a unique coloring – a purple, almost black – from squid ink. To the left of that, too, is a man wearing purple, a beret and an impressive mustache. Honorable mention also goes to a scene of a chicken flying through a home kitchen, where much of their field research was done.

They quote from Cubans they befriended, their personal stories, and the shared cultural history in that country. I didn’t realize how devastating the rations were in the 1990s – one of countless ways history has also shaped the “foodways” of Cuba. You can read about some of the legends, like how the Cubano sandwich really originated, and note the differences between Havana and the rest of the country.

The black market is everywhere, so this publication hopefully won’t endanger anyone, though it is notable that several people wanted to be fully or partly anonymous. (For humorous stories of contraband in Cuba, see Paquito D’Rivera’s “Letters to Yeyito.”) Provable heritage to regions of Spain, and even China, help some restaurants get by, but the Afro-Cuban majority does not have as many ties. The country is changeless and always changing at the same time.

Turning now to the main feature: the food. Cumin is one very common seasoning, sometimes called for as seeds. Oregano and garlic are there a lot too – easy enough. The food is not the spiciest, but when it is, habanero or jalapeno peppers can be used – or even just vinegar, to liven things up. That’s probably what I like best about this book, other than the design and imagery: the recipes are reasonable, with ingredients that shouldn’t be too hard to find, and instructions that cover all the bases. I also appreciate the practical tips on what to expect in preparation, and the substitutions or adjustments that can be made. They even plug the right occasions for certain plates, and refer to other recipes (with page numbers) for suggested pairings.

A few minor detractions here. Not every recipe is pictured, unless they’re somewhere in the table spread, and there are a few ambiguous ingredients, at least for a non-cook like me (what exactly is Mexican crema? which are the five spices in five-spice powder?) I’m sure anyone planning to make any of these recipes would be able to figure something out though. Just an observation, on some spelling: I don’t know why they spell ceviche “seviche” with an “s” – but that’s a dish I avoid anyway. There are Cuban versions of dishes found elsewhere, like tortilla and paella, and a good section on drinks. I enjoyed paging through “Cuba!” and look forward to trying something new soon!

Note: I received a free copy of this title through BloggingForBooks in exchange for an honest review.

Blog p.s.: See also my review of the Slanted Door cookbook